TASK ONE
- Take 3 portraits demonstrating different power outputs
- Set your camera to manual mode. Have an ISO of 200, aperture of F5.6 and a focal length of 50mm make sure your flash is also set to manual mode
FIRST IMAGE:
Correctly exposed with a power output of 1/32 (quarter power)
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
SECOND IMAGE:
Then keep the same camera settings, take another image at 1/128 (a sixteenth of power)
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/128
F5.6
ZOOM 24
THIRD IMAGE:
Take another image at 1/1 (full power)
- Take 3 portraits demonstrating different power outputs
- Set your camera to manual mode. Have an ISO of 200, aperture of F5.6 and a focal length of 50mm make sure your flash is also set to manual mode
FIRST IMAGE:
Correctly exposed with a power output of 1/32 (quarter power)
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
SECOND IMAGE:
Then keep the same camera settings, take another image at 1/128 (a sixteenth of power)
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/128
F5.6
ZOOM 24
THIRD IMAGE:
Take another image at 1/1 (full power)
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/1
F5.6
ZOOM 24
FOURTH IMAGE:
Go back to 1/32 power and decrease the power by 2 full stops and take an image
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/1
F5.6
ZOOM 24
FOURTH IMAGE:
Go back to 1/32 power and decrease the power by 2 full stops and take an image
FIFTH IMAGE:
Adjust the shutter speed OR aperture correctly on the camera to achieve correct exposure
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/6 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32-2STOPS (1/128)
F5.6
ZOOM 24
SIXTH IMAGE:
Keeping the camera settings the same increase the power back up to 1/32 take the image and note results
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/6 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/6 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32-2STOPS (1/128)
F5.6
ZOOM 24
SIXTH IMAGE:
Keeping the camera settings the same increase the power back up to 1/32 take the image and note results
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/6 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
I feel that the last image I took had the best exposure. Although there are slight shadows bwhind the dogs ears, when it comes to overall exposure using a slow shutter speed with a quarter power output has lit my subject evenly without overexposing.
Go back to 1/32 power and decrease power by 2 full stops and take the image CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/6 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/128
F5.6
ZOOM 24
Adjust the shutter speed/ aperture correctly on the camera to get the image back up to the correct exposure and take the image
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
¼ SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/128
F5.6
ZOOM 24
Keeping the camera settings the same increase the power by 2 full stops, take an image and note the results
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
¼ SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
Slightly over exposed. I would need to adjust my shutter speed making it quicker to correct this image. Making my shutter speed faster would decrease the amount of light therefore reducing the exposure.
TASK 2: FLASH ZOOM
Set you camera to manual mode ISO 200, F5.6, 50MM focal length. Set your flash to manual mode.
Take one correctly exposed portrait with a flash zoom of 24mm
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/80 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
My flash only zooms to 85MM
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F6.3
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F6.3
ZOOM 85
TASK3: BOUNCING THE FLASH
Take a correctly exposed portrait with the flash facing straight
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
The flash bounced from the ceiling
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
The flash bounced from the left
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
CAMERA:
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
TASK FOUR: HIGH SPEED SYNC FLASH
High speed sync flash is when your speedlite is connected to your camera. Depending your camera the highest speed you will be able to use will be 1/125 or 1/200
Using the high speed sync flash gives you the ability to override these numbers and shoot on the hgihest shutter speed that your camera goes to. On Nikon's high speed sync flash can usually be found under 'AUTO FP'
The task was to:
Use the flash on ETTL mode (on my flash TTL mode) activate the high speed sync and take a well exposed:
Portrait with a shallow depth of field in bright outdoor ambient light (fill in flash):
bright day with brightness behind the subject
AND/ OR
Portrait showing high speed sync, frozen motion.
As I have an older model of Nikon I don't have the high speed sync flash option. I do have an option on my camera to change my built in flash to either TTL or MANUAL flash. When i click on manual mode i have the option to change the power output to FULL (1/1),1/2, 1/4, 1/8 1/16 or 1/32 ( the lowest power output i am able to use) different cameras will vary.
TASK 5 IN THE STUDIO:
We were given a demonstration on how to
1) :use the stroboscopic light and
2) :use the off camera flash
STROBASCOPIC FLASH:
You need to have the flash set to multi-mode, this gives you the option to adjust the output level, how many times it flashes and the frequency rate in Hertz (Hertz is the unit of frequency).
CAMERA SETTINGS:
ISO 100
WHITE BALANCE: FLASH
F16
FLASH SETTINGS:
Multi-mode
1/8 power
1st image
14 flashes at 1hz:
This attempt didn't work as the batteries were running low (The class were all using the same flash and stroboscopic uses up a lot of battery). This image was made too dark due to the long exposure time when no flash was going off.
We reduced the exposure time to 8 seconds which means we should have been able to capture around 7 arm movements. As the battery was still dying we only managed to capture 3 arm movements. Again the image is slightly dark as the flash stopped whilst the shutter speed was still open.
3rd image:
As the flash was only managing to capture 3 arm movements we changed the exposure to 4 seconds. This allowed enough time for the 3 flashes to go off without underexposing the model. We also had the model spread her arm movements out more. This image worked very well lit and you can see what stroboscopic is capable off, it is just a shame we couldn’t include more arm movements.
Take a correctly exposed portrait with the flash facing straight
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
The flash bounced from the ceiling
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
The flash bounced from the left
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
Flash bounced from the right
ISO 200
F5.6
50MM FOCAL LENGTH
1/200 SHUTTER SPEED
FLASH:
1/32
F5.6
ZOOM 24
TASK FOUR: HIGH SPEED SYNC FLASH
High speed sync flash is when your speedlite is connected to your camera. Depending your camera the highest speed you will be able to use will be 1/125 or 1/200
Using the high speed sync flash gives you the ability to override these numbers and shoot on the hgihest shutter speed that your camera goes to. On Nikon's high speed sync flash can usually be found under 'AUTO FP'
The task was to:
Use the flash on ETTL mode (on my flash TTL mode) activate the high speed sync and take a well exposed:
Portrait with a shallow depth of field in bright outdoor ambient light (fill in flash):
bright day with brightness behind the subject
AND/ OR
Portrait showing high speed sync, frozen motion.
As I have an older model of Nikon I don't have the high speed sync flash option. I do have an option on my camera to change my built in flash to either TTL or MANUAL flash. When i click on manual mode i have the option to change the power output to FULL (1/1),1/2, 1/4, 1/8 1/16 or 1/32 ( the lowest power output i am able to use) different cameras will vary.
TASK 5 IN THE STUDIO:
We were given a demonstration on how to
1) :use the stroboscopic light and
2) :use the off camera flash
STROBASCOPIC FLASH:
You need to have the flash set to multi-mode, this gives you the option to adjust the output level, how many times it flashes and the frequency rate in Hertz (Hertz is the unit of frequency).
CAMERA SETTINGS:
ISO 100
WHITE BALANCE: FLASH
F16
FLASH SETTINGS:
Multi-mode
1/8 power
1st image
14 flashes at 1hz:
This attempt didn't work as the batteries were running low (The class were all using the same flash and stroboscopic uses up a lot of battery). This image was made too dark due to the long exposure time when no flash was going off.
2nd
image
We reduced the exposure time to 8 seconds which means we should have been able to capture around 7 arm movements. As the battery was still dying we only managed to capture 3 arm movements. Again the image is slightly dark as the flash stopped whilst the shutter speed was still open.
3rd image:
As the flash was only managing to capture 3 arm movements we changed the exposure to 4 seconds. This allowed enough time for the 3 flashes to go off without underexposing the model. We also had the model spread her arm movements out more. This image worked very well lit and you can see what stroboscopic is capable off, it is just a shame we couldn’t include more arm movements.
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