Red-scale digital vs film

I wanted to see the difference between a photoshopped digital red scale and a film version. To make my digital red-scale I followed a few simple steps. Here are the steps I followed:

1) Open the image in photoshop

2) Create a curves adjustment layer

3) Change the drop down box from RGB to red. Raise the left end of the curve halfway up the graph, add an anchor point halfway along your curve. This gives you the red colour cast.

4) Change the drop down box from red to blue. Drag the right end of the curve halfway down the graph. This will intensify the yellows.

5) Change the drop down box from blue to RGB again. Adjust the curve until you are happy with the result. Moving the cure controls the vibrancy.

6) You can then adjust the hue and saturation adjustment layer to give a more subtle result.

BEFORE

AFTER

In comparison to the red-scale film I didn't find the red-scale done digitally as visually pleasing. To create my red-scale film I completed the following steps:

1) In complete darkness pull all of the film out of the canister. Leaving at least one inch attached cut the film.

2) Turn the film you just cut out around so the emulsion side is next to the one inch of film left in the canister. Then using masking tape, stick it bad to the stub of film.

3) Wind the film back into the canister leaving at least 2 inches hanging out. You should avoid getting fingermarks on your film however as I struggled to use the canister to wind the film in at points, I had to physically push the film back in.

4) The film is now ready to be loaded and shot.

I decided to shoot my red scale film in Brighton. I took a variety of images using red-scale images. To develop the film you use the traditional C41 process used on colour films.

These are the images I took using my red-scale film:

I am aware that these images are blurry, this is due to me scanning my images in at the wrong resolution size. When I have re-scanned the negatives at the right resolution size, I will replace the images.

The first and second image have got scratches on them, this may be down to me physically pushing the film back into the canister. I have been told that using a manual film camera to wind the film back is an easier way to do this. I will try this method if I do this technique again. Overall I am happy with how the images look, the bottom one especially reminds me of an image that has aged. I enjoyed learning how to make this film as you never know when you are next going to use it, I will definitely use this technique again at some point.